One Sixty Blue: Underappreciated Gem (Chicago-Area Restaurant Review 6)

Everyone knows the Charlie Trotters and Trus of the world (or of Chicago), but not everyone is familiar with One Sixty Blue. Nonetheless, for our money, this is one of the top Chicago dining experiences. Every time we've been to One Sixty Blue, the overall experience is excellent, with at least a few truly inspired items. This time was no exception. One thing that makes this restaurant so good is the cheese appetizer menu. You can either choose one of the popular groupings, or order one-ounce portions of various sheep, goat, and cow's milk cheeses separately. We chose the latter route, and ordered one blue cheese, one cow's/sheep blend camembert, and one herb-encrusted goat's milk cheese. All tasted great, as did the pear slices and cinamon raisin bread that came with the cheese.

For the next course, Steve ordered an endive salad, which he really liked. Lisa ordered the ahi tuna tartare, which came with a crunchy topping and was amazingly fresh and flavorful. (Steve ate some, too, because he is gaining the weight Lisa is losing. She has one pound to go.) For the main course, Steve, continuing his gorge fest, had the steak delmonico, medium rare, smothered with onions. Lisa ordered beef tenderloin, also medium rare. Though she usually prefers filet mignon, the beef tenderloin was cooked perfectly and very tender. Steve did not leave a single morsel of the steak on the plate. Obviously, he thought it was quite good, though he was too busy eating to say.

For dessert, One Sixty Blue offers some amazing choices. Steve had the special Creme Caramel, which consisted of three layers of caramel, creme brulee, and chocolate mousse, with chocolate cakey-cookies on the side. He literally scraped the bottom of the bowl. The bowl also was interesting, as it was a very short mason jar, complete with attached lid. Lisa had the chocolate pear cheesecake. The chocolate sauce had a little expresso flavor, which is not her thing, but was very interesting. The cheesecake was the perfect blend of cheese and sugar, with whole skinned pear on top. Rather unusual in a good way.

We finished with complimentary tiny lemon sandwich cookies and Madeleines (packaged in One Sixty Blue cellophane). They were a delicious ending.

The wine we ordered was St. Francis Red Zinfandel. A little tart for Zinfandel, but it turned out to be a good complement to the excellent food. The total bill, with one bottle of wine, was $330. Without wine, it would have been about $220, which is not unreasonable for this high caliber experience.

For once, Lisa and Steve agreed on the restaurant's bathroom rating, making all aspects of our review positive. Both restrooms were very clean and attractive, with high quality disposable towels, pleasant scent, and ambient (bluish) lighting. Steve's only complaint was that the faucets were not hands free, and exiting required touching the door handle rather than pushing it open. (There's that germ-phobic thing again.)

Overall, our rating for One Sixty Blue, 1400 W. Randolph, Chicago, Illinois, is just short of perfect:

9.5 of 10 Steak Knives and 2.5 of 3 Bathroom Brushes

Gabriel's: Our Highest Rating Yet (Chicago-Area Restaurant Review Five)

This restaurant has a great reputation, which is well deserved. The room is elegant and the tables are spaced far enough apart so that it's not overly loud. Gariel's service, beginning with the maitre d', was friendly without being unctuous. The staff was extremely helpful in choosing a wine we enjoyed, which was at the lower end of our price range. It was a California Syrah, and we drank almost the whole bottle.

For dinner, we started with beef carpaccio and lobster bisque, both of which were excellent (though the beef carpaccio had a little too much pepper for Lisa). The appetizers were accompanied by ample bread and very fresh, flavorful olive oil, which made Steve happy. The mixed green salads were interesting, but perhaps a little too adventurous (dressing was grainy mustard vinaigrette) for us. Lisa had Maine lobster, which was sweet and tender. Steve's veal Osso Bucco was not as tender as he'd hoped, but still good. For dessert, Steve ordered pecan cake with pecan ice cream, which he really liked. Lisa ate flourless chocolate cake, with a warm center, and raspberry sorbet, which was top notch. The dinner, with a $95 bottle of wine, was about $300, and worth every penny.

The Women's Room at Gabriel's was the cleanest and most pleasant Lisa has visited so far. The bathroom fixtures were vintage style and clean, the door had two locks. which gave a feeling of security, and the hand towels were near the door, so they could be used to open it. As usual, Steve was less impressed with the restaurant's Men's Room. He prefers larger bathrooms, not singles, and automatic faucets (so long as water is warm). But otherwise, this one was clean and nice-enough looking.

Gabriel's was definitely the best Chicago-area restaurant we've been to thus far, even down to the end, when the maitre d' stopped by to ask how we liked the dinner. The whole experience was very close to perfect, and we highly recommend it.

Our rating for Gabriel's, 310 Green Bay Road, Highwood, Illinois:

9 of 10 Steak Knives; 2.5 of 3 Bathroom Brushes

Myron & Phil's: Down Memory Lane with a Passable Steak (Chicago-Area Restaurant Review Four)

We decided to visit and review Myron & Phil's because Steve's parents used to take him there every few weeks for Sunday dinner when he was in grade school. We brought down the average age of the patrons by about ten years. The type of restaurant it is is evident by the fact that there is no wine list. For by the glass, we recommend sticking with a brand you know, rather than experimenting.

We started with a shrimp cocktail that was okay but slightly fishy tasting. The salads, which came with the entrees, also were passable, with slightly zesty Italian dressing. Steve loved the bread basket, which contained large soft rolls and tasty black bread. Lisa skipped it. (She's lost 4 pounds so far.) The steaks, which are the speciality, were slightly above average, but not stellar. Both steaks were cooked properly -- we both like medium rare -- but did not have a lot of flavor. Neither of us was really interested in dessert, so we may have missed the best part (the homemade banana chocolate cake looked promising), but the chocolate ice cream was good. Plus, in keeping with the retro nature of the restaurant, it came in an old-fashioned metal ice cream dish, which was fun. The prices were not retro. Total for dinner, with one glass of wine each, was about $150.00.

The bathrooms varied. The Women's Room was fairly clean, though one or two paper towels overflowed the waste basket. The faucet was hands free, which Lisa likes because it's more hygienic, and the water actually was warm. The Men's Room, however, was not particularly clean. It had crumbling wall tiles, and it was hard to pull out the towels without touching the dispenser. (Yes, we are germ-phobic.)

All in all, as a Chicago neighborhood steak joint, Myron & Phil's is still good, but only go there for the retro experience.

Our rating for Myron & Phil's, 3900 W. Devon, Lincolnwood, Illinois:

6 of 10 Steak Knives; 1.5 of 3 Bathroom Brushes (average of Men's and Women's)

Quince: Great Food, but Go Before You Leave Home (Chicago-Area Restaurant Review Three)

Quince is the latest incarnation of what used to be Trio, a high end legend in the Chicago area. While the type of food is different, as is the atmosphere, quality is still high. Lisa loved the salmon appetizer (with creme fraiche, eggs, capers, and onions) and Steve thought it very good. The salads were simple but tasty. Lisa had mixed greens with goat cheese and grapes (make sure to mix in the grapes to counteract the slightly salty dressing), and Steve ordered the wedge salad, which came with blue cheese. We both ordered the braised short ribs, which were cooked to a perfect temperature and were extremely tender and flavorful.

The desserts at Quince were interesting and different. Steve chose the cider and donuts, which he liked. The cider was sweet, and just the smell of the cinnamon donuts made Lisa's mouth water, but she refused to taste due to needing to lose 5 pounds. She ordered the chocolate cake (dark chocolate has few calories). It was bitter dark, which is her favorite kind, but came with a berry-flavored ice cream that clashed somewhat with the chocolate. Still, she recommends the cake for serious chocolate eaters.

As with Aigre Doux, which we last reviewed, Quince's wine list by the bottle is extensive, though less so by the glass. We ordered a mid-range Shiraz because we liked the name (the Anvil). It was tart, a little less fruity than Lisa likes, but very good. With dessert, Lisa ordered the hisbiscus ginger orange tea, which came in a beautiful teapot and tasted wonderful. (Steve's diet coke was good, too.)

Unlike the old Trio, the decor was open and light, with a little less of the country mansion feel. The fireplace and bookshelves made the room warm and relaxing. Because of the small number of tables (about 15), the restaurant feels cozy but not crowded. The experience was a bit less polished than Trio, as evidenced by the fact that several of the items we initially ordered were not available. The total bill was about $220, with the bottle of wine. It would have been around $175 with wine by the glass.

The bathrooms, however, are a different story. To reach them, you need to leave the restaurant and enter the genteel but somewhat shabby SRO-like hotel in which Quince is located. If you take the stairs, you go through two doors. Try to avoid the one that leads to the broom closet. The Ladies' Room, though there are no signs indicating that, is to the left and down a long hall of numbered hotel rooms. Lisa did not notice the table with the sign outside the door, but instead just saw an open room with a small bathroom toward the back. The Ladies' Room was fairly clean, but the lock did not appear very sturdy, which was unnerving. Rather than towels, washcloths were stacked on a shelf. The Eucalyptus soap and hand lotion smelled great, but, overall, the experience leaves the feeling that you've mistakenly wandered into someone's hotel room and may be ordered out at any moment. The Men's Room was even worse in that only one washcloth was on the less than sparklingly clean shelf. The only alternatives were two used -- and dirty-- handtowels above the sink. The Ladies' Room had a tub, and the Men's Room a shower, leaving us to wonder if they also are used by residents. So, our advice is, use the restroom before you leave home, and hold it until you get back.

Overall, though, we really liked the food and atmosphere, and the service was reasonably good. We will return.

Rating for Quince, 1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston, IL 60201:

8 of 10 Steak Knives, but 1 of 3 Bathroom Brushes

Aigre Doux: Our First Recommended Restaurant (Chicago-Area Restaurant Review 2)

We read many good reviews about Aigre Doux, so, on the spur of the moment, we decided to try it. That afternoon, we made a 6:15 Saturday night reservation. When we got there, the restaurant looked somewhat empty. But, by the time we left, it was completely full, and with good reason.

Aigre Doux is an excellent new addition to the Chicago fine dining scene. We loved both of our appetizers. In fact, Steve thought the baked risotto over prosciouto was the best risotto he'd ever tasted. Lisa's appetizer, the heirloom tomatos and fresh goat cheese, was also great. Dessert was another highlight. We shared the ice cream trio and the panna cotta with pineapple. Again, Steve thought the ice cream was some of the best he'd ever eaten. The honeycomb ice cream tasted like fresh honey. The butter pecan was rich, and the ginger chocolate chip added a new twist to the usual chocolate chip ice cream experience.

The entrees at Aigre Doux were good, but not as outstanding as the other courses. The salmon was tender, and the rack of lamb, while not presented quite as nicely as one might expect, was flavorful, but neither was spectacular. Given the overall quality of the restaurant, different entrees might well be in keeping with the rest of the meal, and we plan to go back and try other dishes.

Aigre Doux has an extensive wine list, although more in bottles than by the glass. We chose a mid-priced Pomerol, which was quite good. It was not as heavy as some Pomerols and had an interesting smoky taste.

While the food is our first priority, we also enjoyed the artsy (but not overly so) minimalist decor. However, Aigre Doux is a very live room, and when full, became quite loud. The service, while earnest, was a bit uneven, particularly when it got crowded. If you are more interested in the food than the scene, we advise dining at 6 p.m. or before. Total bill was about $190 with tip and wine. With wine by the glass, it would have been closer to $150.

The bathrooms varied. Lisa found the women's room clean and nicely decorated, though she didn't like that the faucet only stayed on when held. The men's room, while clean, had only cold water running from the sink and had no towels.

Our ratings for Aigre Doux, 230 W. Kinzie St., Chicago, Illinois:

8 of 10 steak knives, and 2 of 3 bathroom brushes (1.5 for men's, 2.5 for women's)