Quince: Great Food, but Go Before You Leave Home (Chicago-Area Restaurant Review Three)

Quince is the latest incarnation of what used to be Trio, a high end legend in the Chicago area. While the type of food is different, as is the atmosphere, quality is still high. Lisa loved the salmon appetizer (with creme fraiche, eggs, capers, and onions) and Steve thought it very good. The salads were simple but tasty. Lisa had mixed greens with goat cheese and grapes (make sure to mix in the grapes to counteract the slightly salty dressing), and Steve ordered the wedge salad, which came with blue cheese. We both ordered the braised short ribs, which were cooked to a perfect temperature and were extremely tender and flavorful.

The desserts at Quince were interesting and different. Steve chose the cider and donuts, which he liked. The cider was sweet, and just the smell of the cinnamon donuts made Lisa's mouth water, but she refused to taste due to needing to lose 5 pounds. She ordered the chocolate cake (dark chocolate has few calories). It was bitter dark, which is her favorite kind, but came with a berry-flavored ice cream that clashed somewhat with the chocolate. Still, she recommends the cake for serious chocolate eaters.

As with Aigre Doux, which we last reviewed, Quince's wine list by the bottle is extensive, though less so by the glass. We ordered a mid-range Shiraz because we liked the name (the Anvil). It was tart, a little less fruity than Lisa likes, but very good. With dessert, Lisa ordered the hisbiscus ginger orange tea, which came in a beautiful teapot and tasted wonderful. (Steve's diet coke was good, too.)

Unlike the old Trio, the decor was open and light, with a little less of the country mansion feel. The fireplace and bookshelves made the room warm and relaxing. Because of the small number of tables (about 15), the restaurant feels cozy but not crowded. The experience was a bit less polished than Trio, as evidenced by the fact that several of the items we initially ordered were not available. The total bill was about $220, with the bottle of wine. It would have been around $175 with wine by the glass.

The bathrooms, however, are a different story. To reach them, you need to leave the restaurant and enter the genteel but somewhat shabby SRO-like hotel in which Quince is located. If you take the stairs, you go through two doors. Try to avoid the one that leads to the broom closet. The Ladies' Room, though there are no signs indicating that, is to the left and down a long hall of numbered hotel rooms. Lisa did not notice the table with the sign outside the door, but instead just saw an open room with a small bathroom toward the back. The Ladies' Room was fairly clean, but the lock did not appear very sturdy, which was unnerving. Rather than towels, washcloths were stacked on a shelf. The Eucalyptus soap and hand lotion smelled great, but, overall, the experience leaves the feeling that you've mistakenly wandered into someone's hotel room and may be ordered out at any moment. The Men's Room was even worse in that only one washcloth was on the less than sparklingly clean shelf. The only alternatives were two used -- and dirty-- handtowels above the sink. The Ladies' Room had a tub, and the Men's Room a shower, leaving us to wonder if they also are used by residents. So, our advice is, use the restroom before you leave home, and hold it until you get back.

Overall, though, we really liked the food and atmosphere, and the service was reasonably good. We will return.

Rating for Quince, 1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston, IL 60201:

8 of 10 Steak Knives, but 1 of 3 Bathroom Brushes