Trattoria Gemelli in Brookfield: Promising Start, Downhill Slide (Chicago Area Restaurant Review 29)

Every now and then we like to review a restaurant in the Chicago area that would not normally attract attention. This week, we decided to try Trattoria Gemelli in Brookfield, a suburb that used to feature mainly family restaurants with senior citizen specials, but lately has developed some more varied options. Our meal started well with two excellent appetizers. The first was a plate of prosciutto-wrapped fresh mozzarella rolls. The mozzarella was very fresh and smooth, and the proscioutto added just the right flavor. The second was an unusual beef carpaccio. Rather than being raw, the thinly sliced beef was cured, like salami. It tasted great.

Next, Lisa had a pear salad with walnuts, raisins and gorgonzola cheese, which she liked very much. Steve enjoyed his Ceasar salad, but not as much as the cool plates on which the salads were served. The plates were square dark green slabs which enthralled Steve.

Unfortunately, our entrees disappointed. Lisa ordered Rigatoni alla Buttera, which consisted of rigatoni, peas and Italian sausage in a creamy pink tomato sauce. It was very salty, and she ate only a few bites. Steve had lasagna bolognese. The top layer was filled with an unknown substance that could have been cheese, but had the consistency and taste of whipped, flavorless potatoes. When Steve finally made it to the bottom (because, unlike Lisa, he'll eat anything), the lasagna was slightly better, as it at least tasted like pasta, but still nothing to write home about.

Dessert was even worse. Steve's panna cotta (which he usually loves) could only be described as vile. Far from tasting like custard, it tasted sort of like feet. Lisa had flourless chocolate cake (which also is usually her favorite) with a warm chocolate mousse center. Continuing a theme, the cake was actually salty, which is quite a trick, and she ate only a third of it, something that probably has never before occurred. It came with hazelnut gelato and cookie crumbs, which was the best part.

We had wine by the glass. Lisa ordered a Leaping Lizard Pinot Noir. It was okay, but seemed a bit overpriced at $12 a glass, and did not come with a lizard. Steve had a more interesting red that we'd never heard of before called Ripasso Valpolicella. It had a light and fruity flavor, which Steve enjoyed.

The service was earnest and somewhat overbearing, at least until another party came in.

There was only one bathroom, and Steve left it to Lisa to check out. Lisa found it far too cold. It was reasonably clean, but not particularly well decorated, in her opinion.

The total bill at Trattoria Gemelli was $145, which struck us as extremely overpriced both for the Brookfield area and for the quality (or lack thereof) of the food. We have been to this restaurant before and found it marginally better, but it can't be rated as a quality destination.

Our rating for Trattoria Gemelli, 3755 Grand Blvd., Brookfield, Illinois:

5.5 of 10 Steak Knives (hold the salt shaker); 1 of 3 Bathroom Brushes (wear your jacket)