Tramanto's Steak and Seafood in Wheeling: Great Food but a Little Chilly (Chicago Area Restaurant Review No. 42)

It was cold outside and, unfortunately, not much warmer in Tramanto's because the heat had gone out in the Westin North Shore where Tramanto's is located. We decided to stay anyway, and we are very glad we did. This is one of the best steak places we've been to, reflecting the pedigree of the chef-owners (who are famous for owning Trio and Tru, among others).

We started with a great bottle of wine, and we wish we remembered the name. But we can tell you it was the most expensive Zinfandel on the wine list (though still under $100). It had hints of dark cherry and was very drinkable, as evidenced by the fact that we finished the whole bottle, which we usually don't do, and Steve actually drank more than one glass. The appetizers were marvelous. We shared smoked salmon and steak tartare. The smoked salmon tasted as good as the salmon at any top notch fish restaurant, and was served on toast rounds with a salmon paste. The steak tartare was accompanied by brioche toast, capers, and egg, most of which we skipped. The meat was so flavorful, we didn't want to dilute it (except Steve could have eaten about 20 pieces of the brioche toast). These appetizers alone made this worth the trip.

But the really good thing is that here, unlike in many of our other recent experiences, the rest of the meal was also excellent. Steve ordered a wedge salad (surprise!). The lettuce was extremely fresh and crisp and the blue cheese dressing was perfect. Lisa had a mixed green salad which was also very fresh.

For entrees, Lisa had the bone-in filet. It was cooked a perfect medium rare and had an excellent taste. The inside was particularly good, and while Lisa didn't especially like the outside part, overall this was one of the best steaks she's had. Steve would have ordered the same thing, but he feels a duty to our readers (we hope there is more than 1 at this point) to try a different cut once in a while, so he instead had the T-bone. The filet part was tremendous, with a supurb flavor. The New York side was not quite as good, but still cooked perfectly medium rare with a fine taste.

Dessert was perhaps not quite as good, though still very enjoyable. Steve ordered coconut cream pie, which was supposed to be one of the signature desserts. He found it a bit too sweet, but still above average. Lisa chose the hot chocolate s'mores. It consisted of marshmallows, graham cracker pieces, and cake smothered in plenty of warm dark chocolate. It, too, was a little sweet for her taste, but still very fun and good.

We both agreed that the restrooms were deserving of superstar status. The women's bathroom was extremely clean, with attractive marble floors and separate rooms instead of stalls, plus clothlike hand towels and nicely scented soap. Steve would have rated the men's bathroom as perfect except that the door required touching the handle to exit, though there was a wastebasket there so patrons could use a towel to open it.

Tramanto's probably would have gotten almost our best rating had the air been a little less chilly and the waiter (who was unctuous and annoying) been a bit more chilly. Nonetheless, we heartily recommend this restaurant, even though it may be a bit of a drive for some.

Dinner for two, with a bottle of wine, cost $250. With wine by the glass, it would have been about $180. The quality makes this a good value.

Our rating for Tramanto's Steak and Seafood, 601 N. Milwaukee Avenue, Wheeling, Illinois:

8.5 of 10 Steak Knives, 3 or 3 Bathroom Brushes