Shaw's Crab House: Best Fish in Chicago (Chicago Restaurant Review 31)

We finally made it to Shaw's for purposes of the blog. We go to Shaw's more than to any other seafood restaurant in the area, and with good reason. Despite some atmospheric and attitudinal quirks, the food is first rate.

On this visit, Lisa ordered Stonestreet Merlot, which Steve had at another restaurant and Lisa tasted and really liked. This one, though, was very dry, which Lisa doesn't care for. Steve followed wine tradition more closely by ordering white. He had an Australian Reisling. Unfortunately, the Germans make a much better Reisling. Lisa was disappointed to find that Shaw's was not offering its chocolate martini that night. It is her favorite drink there, and is the best chocolate Martini she's had in the city or suburbs. The waiter promised it will be back, and so will we.

For appetizers, we shared the shrimp cocktail and an order of stone crab claws. Shaw's shrimp cocktail is by far the best in the city. The shrimp are delectable and large, with perfect tangy sauce. Lisa really liked the crab claws, which were extremely fresh. (Steve isn't much of a crab fan, but thought what he tasted of it was actually pretty good.) We weren't all that happy with our salads. The wedge was okay, but the blue cheese dressing was a bit weak. Lisa ordered the mixed green salad, which incongrously came with bleu cheese crumbles and Italian dressing. The combination just didn't work. This salad paled in comparison to the bleu cheese salad which used to be on the menu. As usual, Steve overate on the bread, which he really likes, particularlyn the soft rolls.

For entrees, Steve had the always excellent salmon. The preparation is very simple but elegant because it is sparing, so the accent is clearly on the salmon itself, which is a wonderful piece of fish. Lisa ordered her favorite, the crab cakes, which were amazing. In Lisa's opinion, these are the best crab cakes in Chicago (if not the world). The breading has minimal seasoning so the fresh taste of the crab is highlighted.

Desserts here are never all that spectacular, particularly compared to the great fish, which is part of why Lisa usually gets the chocolate martini. Since that was not available, she had the chocolate cake. The cake itself was unimpressive, and the whipped cream with it was somewhat gummy. Steve had apple pie and ice cream. He was pleasantly surprised because this was the first Shaw's dessert he considered good (although still not great).

The bathrooms were not good. The Women's Room was not clean. The Men's Room was the same, and, in keeping with a theme (see our review of Al's Charhouse) had semi-pornographic pictures of mermaids.

The total bill, with wine by the glass, was about $170, which sounds pricey, but which we think is well worth it. Our review actually contains a lot of semi-negative comments, but the whole here is much great than the sum of its parts because, despite all these quirks (including surly valets and indifferent maitre d's), you will not find a better seafood restaurant than Shaw's anywhere.

Our ratings for Shaw's Crab House, 21 E. Hubbard St., Chicago, Illinois:

9 of 10 Fish Hooks; 1.5 of 3 Bathroom Brushes