J. Gilbert's: Great If You Don't Count The Entree (Hartford Restaurant Review No. 1)

On a recent business trip to the insurance capital of the world, Hartford, Connecticut, we visited what was billed as one of the best non-chain steakhouses in the Hartford area, J. Gilbert's. The restaurant is very large, seating almost four hundred, and yet it was jam packed even on a Wednesday night. So we thought we had picked a top steak place. Basically, we did, except for the steak.

We started with a bottle of Ravenswood Zinfandel 2004. LIsa really liked it. It was light, tart but not too tart, and had a good grapy flavor ("grapy" being a technical wine term we made up). The appetizers were tremendous. The beef carpaccio was as good as any we've had, with small, thin slices of beef that were full of flavor. The shrimp cocktail was also very good, with large, tasty shrimp and a sauce which was just the right accompaniment. For salads, Steve had a wedge, which he really liked, particularly the bleu cheese dressing. Lisa's mixed green salad was also good. She especially liked the combination of pine nuts with the cheese crumbles and fresh greens.

Up to this point, we thought this might be out best find ever. But our hopes were sorely dashed by the entrees. Steve's porterhouse looked abysmal and certainly not like prime beef. It was flat and ugly, and while it didn't taste too bad, it certainly didn't seem to be a top cut. Lisa had the steak and lobster (surf and turf). She liked the filet, but it was a little chewy. The lobster had too much mesquite seasoning, but the meat itself, with the top seasoned layer cut away, was pretty good. Lisa did, however, really like the whipped potatoes, which is not a huge plus in her book because she tries not to eat starch.

J. Gilbert's got back on track with dessert. Steve's berry cobbler was excellent, and the creme fraiche was the best he'd ever tasted, as it was sweet and warm. Lisa's chocolate souffle was good, but more milk chocolate than dark chocolate. We also really liked the professional and friendly service.

The bathrooms were nothing spectacular. Lisa thought the Women's Room was clean and had a good hands-free faucet. Steve thought the Men's Room was a bit grimy.

The total bill at J. Gilbert's, with a bottle of wine, was about $245. With wine by the glass, it would have been about $200. This is probably somewhat pricey for what we got, but it appeared to us that Hartford in general is a fairly pricey market.

Our ratings for J. Gilbert's, 185 Glastonbury Road, Glastonbury, Connecticut:

7.5 of 10 Steak Knives; 2 of 3 Bathroom Brushes

(Note: J. Gilbert's is in the Hartford suburbs in a mini-mall with Barnes & Noble, so if you take a cab from downtown Hartford, know your directions, because the cab drivers seem unfamiliar with the area.)